Living in Turkmenistan

Language

The official languages of Turkmenistan are Turkmen and Russian. The country is made up of 75 per cent Turkmen, and the majority of them also speak Russian. The most widely spoken foreign language is English, but do not assume that local people will be able to understand you. Knowledge of foreign languages can be restricted and you will certainly need the help of interpreters outside Ashgabat if you are not a Russian or Turkmen speaker. In many rural areas Turkmen will be the best language to use. Most signs and street names are in Russian and Turkmen.

You are advised to learn, preferably before you arrive, the Russian and Turkmen alphabet and some basic phrases to help you with everyday life. If you speak Russian, even a little, it will make a significant difference to your life and work in the country. If you do not speak any Russian, try to use your Turkmenistan partner as a ‘guide’ during the initial period of your stay in Turkmenistan.

How to get around

Finding a reliable means of transport is a priority. Your life will be considerably easier once you have sorted out a safe and dependable way of getting around. Transport is one of the most common problems which experts face, and it is worth spending the time to try and sort something out which you are happy with.

The most secure and time effective option is to find a car and driver through the CU, which maintains a list of reliable drivers. Alternatively, you may consider driving yourself once you feel comfortable with the rules of the road. As a general rule, you will find it difficult to rely on public transport to get you around further than the city centre.

Public transport

Public transport in Ashgabat is by (trolley) bus. If you do not speak the language you will find it difficult to use public transport (at least until you are familiar with the alphabet) because all route is of course in Turkmen and Russian. It is not easy to work out how to reach your destination, even though the driver announces each station. If you are planning to use the same public transport route regularly, i.e. the route fro home to work, ask an associate to accompany you on your first couple of return journeys. You can sometimes buy maps in the kiosks situated close to the bus stops.

You can also buy tickets in these kiosks. Public transport is not expensive. You will need to use one ticket per journey on the bus or trolley, and to validate this you should punch it in one of the machines attached to the inside of the vehicle. Buses and trolley buses operate daily from 6.00 am to 1 am.

Taxis

It is not particularly easy to identify a ‘taxi’ on the street, since many ‘taxis’ are now private citizens using their own cars to make some extra cash. Hiring a ‘chastnik’ has become a more acceptable alternative means of getting around, particularly in the big cities, although you should always exercise caution when using their services. You will find most official taxis (often yellow cars) outside the hotels. at the airport, or through the telephone book. Taxis can also be hailed on the street.

It pays to be vigilant about security when taking a taxi - don’t get into a car which has other people riding in it; keep a keen eye on the route and your possessions.

It is best not to use a taxi too late at night. Taxis use meters which do not always work and no longer use fixed tariffs. It is worth negotiating the fare before you make the journey, as this is accepted practice. On average, the fare per kilometre is twice as high at night than during the day. Given the current rate of inflation it is worth checking with business colleagues or hotel staff what they think the cost of the journey should be.

Car rental

Many of the new hotels have their own fleet of cars which are available for hire, with or without a driver. If you not know the city, it is sensible to hire a driver, at least at the start of your visit.

If you decide to rent a car without a driver, you will need the following information.

• both your domestic and international driving licences are valid in Turkmenistan.
• if you commit a minor traffic violation, (and sometimes if you do not) you will be called to a halt at the side of the road by a member of the traffic police or ‘GAI’. You will see them positioned at most traffic intersections; they hold batons and whistles as a means of attracting attention and often sit in raised lookouts. You may simply be cautioned or asked to pay a nominal fine on the spot. It is best not to argue otherwise you risk having your offence officially registered, which means paying through official channels (this procedure may take time), or being sent to the police station for a blood test.
• Never drink and drive in Turkmenistan - you will be fined, or charged, because it is considered a serious offence.
• If you have an accident, you should wait for a traffic policeman to arrive on the scene without moving the cars involved, so that he can make the necessary assessments and write a report. This police procedure is necessary for insurance purposes (the report has to be made available to your insurance company).
• Road signs mainly correspond to the international standard of pictograms - or can be easily worked out - although there are some which are in Russian script. All streets names are in Russian, some in Turkmen and you will find them on the sides of buildings. Be aware that although many of the streets are currently being renamed, many of the road signs remain unchanged, even if the name on the street map has changed. Most people will know if their road has been renamed and will warn you in advance, but it can lead to some confusion.
• There are a number important rules of the road:

- drive on the right hand side of the road.

- always wear your seat-belt.

- to turn left, or right at a light, wait for the arrow to light up.

- headlights must be turned on when entering tunnels, during the day, and at night.

• Find out where your nearest petrol station is before you set out because roadside petrol stations are fewer than in western Europe - they are often set back from the road and badly signposted; or there can be simply petrol tankers parked on the side of the road dispensing petrol straight from the vehicle. Some city maps have the main petrol stations marked.
• There are three types of petrol in Turkmenistan: “76 octane” used in the older Russian models, “93 octane” used in most of the local models, and “95 octane” used in western cars. Diesel fuel is also available, but is often very contaminated. Pumps are usually clearly marked. Avoid buying petrol on Friday afternoons in the summer - you will be competing with dozens of people buying petrol before leaving the city for their dachas.

Buying and registering a car

If you bring your own, or a company car into Turkmenistan, refer to the second part of this section, ‘Travelling to Turkmenistan’.

If you use a car belonging to your Turkmenistan partner, you can obtain official permission to drive the car by drawing up a notary letter. This is usually done by the owner of the car and does not require your presence, only your passport.

To register a car, the driver/owner has to take the following documents to the local GAI (traffic police office):

• his own passport.
• the ‘spravka-schet’ - a document from the factory which confirms the car has been bought and is not stolen.
• the ‘ car passport ‘ the technical documents.
• In absence of a registered representative office or an official accreditation, a letter from the CU requesting the car’s registration.

The second and third documents should be given to you by the seller of the car. It is recommended that you consult business associates, your partner, or a city guide, when choosing a reliable dealer. There are a few reliable firms in Ashgabat selling Russians car and Turkish cars.

You can now buy non-Russian cars in Ashgabat, but they are more expensive in Turkmenistan than in western Europe, and servicing and spare parts can be a problem.

To insure a car registered in Turkmenistan its owner can approach one of the specialised insurance companies, although it is a good idea to ask colleagues for their recommendations. In Turkmenistan most Tacis cars are insured by:

• Turan Ingosstrakh (Tel 35 82 18).

Money

Local currency

The local currency is the Manat. All financial transaction on the territory of Turkmenistan should be carried out in Manats, although joint-ventures which include most hotels and restaurants are allowed to deal in a foreign currency. The Manat mostly comes in denominations of 20, 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, and 10,000. Credit cards are rarely accepted in Ashgabat, and not at all outside the capital.

Changing money

If you need to change money you can go to any commercial bank or licensed exchange point. Most exchange Manats for US dollars. The exchange rate changes each week, so you are not advised to change more than you need. Be aware that rates and commissions may vary between exchange points. It is advisable to exchange money only through officially licensed banks and their exchange points, not in the streets, since this is less secure and you run the risk of receiving counterfeit Manats or dollars. Individuals must show their passport in order to change money in officially licensed banks.

Obtaining cash

If you run out of cash, there are a couple of reliable methods which you can try to obtain funds from an account in your home country:

• The first method is to obtain cash using your charge, credit or debit card. You can obtain a cash advance on your Visa credit or debit card, or your Mastercard, at the Vneshekonombank and hotel exchange offices displaying the Visa or Mastercard signs. The commission will vary and will be anything up to five per cent. Bear in mind that your bank will charge you a handling fee.
• You can also obtain a cash advance using your American Express card as a guarantee for a personal cheque at the Vnesheconombank.
• The first ATM machines are being installed in Ashgabat for use by VISA, Mastercard and local chip card holders.

Obtaining a multi-entry visa

If you plan to travel to and from Turkmenistan frequently, you will find it much easier to obtain a multi-entry visa at an early stage. You are advised to obtain your multi-entry visa through your Turkmenistan partner or the Co-ordinating Unit. The information you need is as follows.

• You are advised to obtain your multi-entry visa during your first visit when you have a single-entry visa.
• The sponsor for your single entry visa must be the sponsor for your multiple-entry visa.

As a general rule, your multi-entry visa should be ready within three to four working days. However, the dramatic increase in locals applying for passports and visas has created a backlog which the ministry is struggling to complete, so the application may take longer then you anticipated. It is worth checking how long your application will take and whether you can pay an express fee.

Where to eat

Joint venture restaurants

These are restaurants which have been set up by a Turkmen and a western partner. The type of cuisine mirrors the national cuisine of the western partner but the menu may also include some Turkmen dishes. The management, service and menu in these restaurants tend to correspond more closely to the style and quality which you are used to in western Europe, although be prepared for higher prices. You can pay in cash, and sometimes by credit card, but it is as well to check in advance. Lunch time is a popular time for local and foreign business community to eat out, and many hotels and restaurants offer set lunch buffets at a fixed price.

Private and Cooperative restaurants

These restaurants are owned and managed by one or a group of individuals, invariably locals. The cuisine is usually local. The service, quality and prices are usually somewhat below those of joint-venture restaurants. Payment is in cash.

State-owned restaurants

There are many state-owned restaurants, particularly outside Ashgabat. The cuisine is usually Turkmen or Russian. Eating late is difficult in many restaurants because the kitchens close at about 10 p.m. Standard opening hours are from 11 am to 1 PM with a break from 3 to 5 PM.

For restaurants recommendations, telephone numbers and addresses, ask your associates, or the Coordinating Unit, which maintains an up-to-date list of “the in-places”.

Cafes and fast food outlets

Finding food quickly is still more difficult in Turkmenistan than it is in western Europe. One fast food outlet and sandwich delivery firm now operates in Ashgabat. There are public cafes or ‘stolovaya’ offering a simple menu in most towns, and there will probably be a cafeteria in or near to the ministry/company where you work, because it is traditional to provide a hot lunch for their employees. In some companies, there is sometimes a separate cafeteria for management where the standard of food is higher.

Tipping

Tipping is an old tradition in Turkmenistan dating back to the last century. It is expected of foreign visitors in restaurants and hotels. Tips are welcome in any hard currency (from US$1 to a porter in a mid-range hotel, to US$5 for a waiter in a good restaurant), but Manats are also appreciated.

Renting an apartment

If you are going to stay in Turkmenistan for a long time, it is worth while renting an apartment. Indeed, even of you and your colleagues are travelling to and from your project regularly, you may find it more economical and convenient to rent an apartment for the duration of the project. Check in advance whether your Turkmenistan partner is planning to take care of your accommodation as part of the Statement of Endorsement. Finding an apartment yourself can be a lengthy and time-consuming process and you should be prepared to spend the time when you first arrive.

The process of privatising apartments has only began recently, so the rental market is not yet well developed. There are legal problems in the “rental” market.

Looking for an apartment

You can begin the search for an apartment by looking in a local paper or getting in touch with projects who may have lists of suitable accommodation. This word of mouth approach can be a safe and reliable way to find accommodation.

The condition of apartments varies enormously. A flat which offers you everything, such as a well kept entrance, decent standard of decoration and furnishing, and good security, is difficult to find. Housing blocks generally lodge one family per apartment but the space is usually more restricted.

When looking for an apartment, bear the following points in mind.

• Security - this is one of the most important features to consider. Try and get a feel for the area where you are looking for a flat and find out if there are other foreigners living in the block you can talk to about security.
• Location - because getting around is not always easy, especially in winter, try and find accommodation which is either central or near to your place of work.
• Convenience - age, air-conditioning, concrete/brick (cooler in summer), water (continuous or not), floor (water pressure usually low at third floor and higher), electricity etc.
• Contract - if you can, try to ensure the contract that you sign has terms that suit you. You might want to take a Turkmen associate with you if you are not a good Russian/Turkmen speaker and you agent does not speak you language.
• Terms - agree terms before you sign the contract such as what furniture you want to keep in the flat, the length of the lease and current rent in US Dollars, and whether you can keep pets. Keep the rates fixed for an agreed period. Rent is usually paid on a monthly basis. Be clear that the flat is for your sole use there have been cases where owners, if they live nearby, continue to use the flat for cooking meals for example. Gas, water, and electricity are more or less free and included in rent (this avoids cumbersome payment procedures). Telephone bills take a long time to come through. Check that all bills are paid before you move into a flat. Renting flats is a new practice in Turkmenistan and local people do not know the business etiquette of flat renting, and they can insist on leaving their furniture, personal belongings and clothes behind because they may have nowhere to store them, and they may not keep to the contract’s terms.
• Money - Rent is usually paid monthly in arrears, but an advance may be made on the first months rent.
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Problems

If you have problems with the electricity, gas or water in your apartment, you should ask the landlord or reliable neighbours for the emergency or general service phone numbers. It is advisable to ensure the landlord provides you with all these numbers when you sign the lease. Costs of electricity, gas hot water are still such cheaper than in western Europe.

Healthcare

The healthcare infrastructure has suffered from a lack of resources and new investment. This means that medical equipment is outdated, medicines are in short supply, and the upkeep of hospitals and clinics has been neglected.

This picture is starting to change, however, with the appearance of new medical centres and dental practices in Ashgabat, which are owned or part-owned by an expatriate organisation. These centres tend to offer their own subscription and insurance schemes so it is advisable to find out what they offer and which option suits you best it terms of cost, opening hours, location and emergency care. You may find that your existing medical insurance is accepted by one of these clinics, or that you can reclaim the money should you need to use their services.

The CU has a list of doctors and hospitals.

Remember the following points.

• Before your departure for Turkmenistan check the nature and extent of your health insurance cover.
• Have a full medical check-up if you are coming for an extended period.
• Bring your own basic medicines. Consider items which you often use, or might find a need when travelling such as painkillers, throat lozenges, cold or flu treatments, antacid tablets, antiseptic creams, ‘Imodium’ and some general acting anti-biotics.
• Ask your doctor or travel clinic for an emergency medical kit which includes disposable syringes, plasters and bandages.
• You are advised to bring prescription medicines with you as local pharmacies usually lack the ingredients to make them. Your spectacles prescription would be useful as well so that you can get a new pair sent in.
• Water purification tablets might be useful if you plan to travel outside the big cities. A light weight travel pump filter would be useful.
• Check your immunisations are up to date before you leave for Turkmenistan: such as tetanus and typhoid, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B. Consider also boosters for the childhood diseases such as measles, mumps and polio. Be aware in particular that the incidence of diphtheria and meningitis is rising again. Your doctor or travel clinic will advise you about what you need.

There are also some general health precautions which you might consider taking.

• The water can cause health problems, especially during the summer months. It is recommended to boil all drinking water for at least 5 minutes, and then filtering before drinking. Bottled water is becoming more available in Ashgabat, but check that the seal is still intact.

Always wash fruit and vegetables before you eat them, preferably with water that has been boiled and filtered.

Education and Language teaching

There has been an International School, Tel 44 55 80 and Fax 44 69 55, in Ashgabat since September 1994 which enrols 6 to 16 year olds. Teaching is in English with Spanish as an option in the afternoon.

The CU has a list of Turkmen and Russian language teachers.

Social Mores

• If you invited to a home, take flowers or another small gift with you. Always take an odd number of flowers - one, three or five is normal - even numbers are only given at funerals.
• If invited to a wedding, housewarming party it is appropriate to give money as a gift, but be discrete when giving. Put it into an envelope or slide it into your host’s pocket.
• When invited into a home remove your shoes before entering.
• Never shake hands over the threshold, invite the person into your office or flat before you shake hands with them. Do not shake hands with a woman unless she offers her hand first. Turkmen women rarely shake hands.
• In traditional Turkmen homes people usually sit on carpet covered floors and eat from communal bowls.
• It is impolite to walk without permission in front of guests on the carpet.
• Vodka, cognac and champagne are only drunk (ad fundum!) after a toast. The ‘Toast Master’ or ‘Tamada’ will decide on the order of speeches, usually in order of seniority, although foreigners may be given preference. A toast will usually include words of thanks for the hospitality, and generous wishes for the well-being and good health of the host and his family, or any other words appropriate to the occasion.
• Do not put bread down up-side-down and do not break it by using one hand.
• Never turn a drinks bottle over and pour the drink backwards: it is considered insulting to the person whose glass you are filling.
• Turkmen women usually wear long dresses, and dance separately from the men.
• Never twist your forefinger by your temple, this implies that the person you are talking to is mad.
• If you leave bread outside for beggars, leave it on a surface above the ground.
• do not give money from hand to hand after sunset, put it down on a surface so that the other person can pick it up

Security and crime

The crime-rate is low in Turkmenistan including in Ashgabat. Nevertheless you should take the usual safety precautions.

Some security tips

• Many foreign visitors run into problems because they are too trusting. One would normally use the services of a professional company or individual when renting a flat, taking a taxi, or renting a car in western Europe - the same should apply in Turkmenistan.
• Use caution when taking taxis. Do not take a private taxi late at the night when it is dark or when there are already other passengers riding in the car. Work out how you are going to get home before accepting an invitation in the evening.
• Apartment. If you are staying in Turkmenistan for some time and have many personal effects, you might consider installing a steel door. Take a look at the flats in the block and if they have installed steel doors. you might consider following suit. Discuss with landlord who is also interested in protecting his property.
• Some people have opted to install an alarm system connected to the nearest police station which means that the police are alerted as soon as you encounter intruders or other difficult situations. If possible, check with other foreign residents if possible, before opting for this system because it can have its drawbacks. To find out how you can install a system, call the local police inquiry office (02 in Ashgabat)
• Be careful with your handbag or briefcase, especially in crowded places. Remember that about 90 percent of pickpockets victims are women. If you are in a crowd and you feel that someone is trying to steal something from you, only defend yourself if the pick-pocket is alone and unarmed. Local pickpockets do not tend to be violent and usually try to escape once discovered. Bumbags are susceptible in crowded buses.
• Do not carry a large amount of cash and exchange money only in official exchange offices. Keep your wallet in an inner pocket and carry with you only what you know you will need. Try not to attract to your cash and credit cards in public places; do not make it obvious that you have money with you.
• If you buy a car, take some basic security precautions. Install a good alarm system but be careful that it cannot be demobilised. Always lock the car and do not leave the keys in the ignition. If possible, keep the car in a safe place at night, either in a garage or in a nearby “stoyanka” (supervised secure open air parking areas) Thieves can be attracted by the car stereo, so try a removable front panel. Never leave bags and briefcases visible inside the car.
• If you travel by train try to book a whole sleeping compartment for yourself. You are advised to secure the compartment door from the inside with wire, a belt or a length of rope. Do not accept food and beverages from anyone.
• Avoid very quiet areas late at night and always try to find a reliable companion if you have to walk or take a taxi late at night. As in any city, you will come to know the areas to avoid. If you are on your own, avoid entering the lift in apartment blocks with people you do not know or who look suspicious.
• Be cautious when returning home after social drinking - you will be and easy target for thieves.

What to do in emergency situations

If you do become the victim of a crime, call or go to the nearest police station immediately. In Ashgabat the police phone number is 02. You may call from any telephone booth without paying (dialling the same 02 number). Do not expect much constructive assistance - the police are limited in what they can do to help. You should also inform your embassy if the crime is serious.

If you lose your passport, contact your embassy or consulate immediately to inform them and to seek advice as to how to obtain a replacement. Under the new regulations of the Maastricht treaty you can turn to the embassy of another EU member state in absence of your own embassy. It is possible to register with the German Embassy for assistance in emergency situations.

To obtain a new visa you must return to the visa registration office with the same documents you required when you originally obtained your visa.

Ashgabat is in an earthquake zone, and as such, may suffer from tremors.

Superstitions

Like with all peoples, there are many deep-rooted superstitions in Turkmenistan, such as:

• Avoid lighting a cigarette from a candle: it brings bad luck.
• The same is true for a black cat crossing your path.
• If you leave a place and have to return immediately because you have forgotten something, you should look at yourself in the mirror and make an adjustment to your hair or your tie, for example, or you will have bad luck.
• Do not whistle indoors: it will blow your money away.
• If somebody you know calls you and you do not recognise their voice, or vice versa, they will become rich.
• If you are going on a long journey, sit down for a few moments just before you leave, and your trip will be successful.
• If you feel that something bad may happen, knock three time on a piece of wood to prevent it occurring.

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